BUITTLE CASTLE: An Ancient Galloway Stronghold.
by J Maxwell Wood.
The Gallovidian Vol.6 No. 23. Autumn 1904.
THE oldest castellated strongholds of Galloway embraced those of Wigtown, Cruggleton, Kirkcudbright, and Buittle (Botel), and whilst actual dates and particulars of their erection are not known, evidence of their existence in the thirteenth century is available.
The hoary hand of time has dealt hardly with them, for of Wigtown Castle only the site remains, not far from the mouth of the river Bladnoch. Of Cruggleton, the rocky fortress of John Comyn, Earl of Buchan, an archway, carefully preserved, is all that is left. At the "Castledykes", on the banks of the Dee, the site and traces of a fosse are all that can he seen of the original castle of Kirkcudbright; and of Buittle, the castle which more immediately concerns us, a fragment of massive masonry and vaulting alone survives, yet sufficiently indicates the presence in more remote times of a place of great strength and even rude beauty.
Its situation near the town of Dalbeattie, on a mound on the western bank of the Urr, as it meanders through a beautifully wooded valley to meet the Solway tide, is rich in natural surroundings, and must have been even more so, before the utilitarian hand had delved so deeply into the hillside of Craignair to win its beautiful grey granite treasure.
Concerning the place-name itself, it occurs in various forms - Botle, Botel, Butel, Botyll, Botille, and the modern corrupt form, Buittle. The oldest form, Botle, points directly to its derivation from the Anglo-Saxon botle, a house or dwelling-place.
As the residence of the ancient Reguli or rulers of Galloway, Buittle is associated, and on the death of Alan, the last of these rulers and lords of the line of Fergus, in 1234, without surviving male issue, the lordship was divided between his three daughters. To the second daughter, Devorgilla, of whom Wyntoun has chronicled that -
A bettyr lady than scho was nane
In all the yle of Mare Britane,
the castle and lands of Buittle passed as part of her heritage.
Previous to this, Devorgilla had been happily wedded to an Anglo-Norman baron, John Balliol of Barnard Castle in Durham and though possessed of that beautiful estate, as well as that of Fotheringay, also in England, he with his consort took up residence at Buittle, and became much beloved by the Galloway people indeed. With John Comyn ruling in the west and John Balliol in the east, Galloway enjoyed for many years a period of peace and prosperity, which in later times was denied her.
A domestic event of importance in the annals of Buittle was the birth there in 1249 of John Balliol the ''Competitor."
John Balliol, the elder, dying in 1269, it was left to his widow, Devorgilla, to carry out his dearly cherished scheme to found and endow a college at Oxford, which was appropriately named Balliol College. The charter, statutes, and foundation grants were dated from Buittle - ' Given at Botel, in the octave of the assumption of the glorious Virgin Mary, in the year of grace 1282," being the concluding sentence of the deed.
In memory of her husband, Devorgilla raised the magnificent pile of Sweetheart Abbey. The old bridge of Dumfries still perpetuates her memory, and among other good works she established a monastery for Greyfriars at Dumfries and another for Blackfriars at Wigtown. She is further credited with the erection of an early castle of Kenmure and extensive additions to Buittle Castle itself. Surviving her husband for twenty-one years, this pious lady died in 1289 at Barnard Castle, but by her own wish her body was taken home to Sweetheart Abbey, and tenderly laid to rest with the casket containing the dust of her dear lord's heart lying upon her bosom.
When John Balliol pleaded his cause as a competitor before King Edward he brought forth a strong accusation against the rival family in which there is an early and noteworthy reference to Buittle Castle, and quoting from the historical records of Sir Francis Palgrave, the following is the statement: - '' When the bishops and great men of Scotland had sworn to defend the kingdom for their lady, the daughter of the King of Norway . . . Sir Robert de Brus and the Earl of Carrick, his son, attacked the castle of Dumfries with fire and arms and banners displayed, and against the peace expelled the forces of the Queen who held the same. Hence Sir Robert advanced to the castle of Botil. He then caused a proclamation to he made by one Patrick M'Guffock within the baillary of the said castle. Furthermore, the Earl of Carrick, by the assent and power of his father, took the lady of Scotland's castle of Wigtown, and killed several people there."
As a matter of fact, as pointed out and commented upon by Sir Herbert Maxwell in his "Robert the Bruce," civil war broke out in Scotland on the death of Alexander III. in 1286, through an attempt to ignore the claims of the "Maid of Norway,"' and seize the crown for Robert de Brus, Lord of Annandale, and grandfather of him who became King Robert the Great.
On July 7th, 1296, John Baliol resigned his kingdom. John Warrene, Earl of Surrey, was appointed "Guardian of Scotland," whilst his nephew, Henry de Percy, was made "Custodian of Galloway" and keeper of the castles of " Botel, Wygton, and Crugelton" (Sept. 8, 1296). In less than a year (Aug. 22, 1297), he seems to have been superseded by John de Hodleston as keeper of the same castles of " Botel, Wigton, and Crugelton," with the castle of Ayr in addition. It is still in the hands of the English in the year 1309, when on December Edward II. appoints John de St John keeper of the castle of Botil; and also in 1311, when William Moderbenzion receives 4s 6d for carrying Edward II's letters of privy seal to the constables of Selkirk Pele, and the castles of Jedworth, Cavres, Loghmaben, Botel, Dalswynton, and Dumfries.
The strong personality of Robert the Bruce now makes itself felt. With the death of Edward I., his cause gained strength, and emerging from the rocky fastnesses and retreats of Glentrool, where he had been hunted like the native tod and brock, he meets with success after success that almost foretells the triumphant field of Bannockburn.
But Galloway has not forgotten the murder of Comyn, the grandson of Devorgilla, and views his success with ill-concealed disfavour. To bring that district into a more proper state of mind, Edward Bruce, the King's brother, sweeps through the province, dealing death and destruction. Engagement follows engagement. On the slopes of Kirroughtree, with but fifty horsemen, taking advantage of a friendly mist, the younger Bruce attacks and almost cuts to pieces a force of 1500 English and Galwegians under Sir John de St. John. Stronghold after stronghold falls, to the number of thirteen. Buittle Castle alone remains untaken.
An entry from Bain's Calendar of Documents describes the situation in July, 1312. It is an anonymous communication sent from Dumfries, of the nature of information from a spy to Edward II. The writer says - "Since he left him at York Sir Robert de Brus had held a parliament at Ayr, and intended to send Sir Edward, his brother, with the greater part of his forces into England, while he himself attacked the castles of Dumfries, Buittle (Botyll), Carlaveroc, remaining there and sending his light troops to plunder the north for their support. The bearer will relate matters touching the King's dignity. Dumfries, 14th July, 1312."
The anonymous writer at Dumfries seems to have been correctly informed, for soon afterwards Robert de Bruce led an assault in person on the castle of Buittle. A determined attack was met by a stubborn resistance, and the garrison did not surrender (1312) without great damage to the building itself.
Robert the Bruce, firmly seated on the throne, Galloway was divided amongst his own immediate friends and supporters, and the heritage of Buittle passed to Sir James Douglas, happily known in Scottish history as the Good Sir James.
The march of time moves on, and the death of Scotland's doughty king takes place. Again there comes an opportunity of asserting the Balliol succession, and Edward, son of the "Competitor," lands at Kinghorn, August 6, 1332, to make a bid for the Scottish crown but history repeating itself, again with the backing of an English monarch - a backing which had to be dearly paid for, for one claim for compensation by Edward III. insisted upon the relinquishment of the majority of the southern counties of Scotland, including the town of Berwick, the Ettrick Forest, the shires of Edinburgh, Roxburgh, Peebles, and Dumfries, which at that time included Kirkcudbright.
The demand was so haughty and peremptory that Balliol seems to have been utterly cowed, and in his eagerness to comply and appease, he signed a hastily drawn up document of consent that actually included the reversion of his own private estates in Galloway. Edward, however, waived this part of the claim, and issued a declaration (June 18, 1334) bearing that Botel, Kenmure, and Kirk Andrewes were the property of Balliol, as a private heritage of kinship rather than of kingship.
In this same year came Edward Balliol to reside and hold his court at Buittle, and the following January, with Henry Percy and Sir Ralph Nevil, he set out upon a marauding expedition, which penetrated to the Lothians, crossed to the west country, and returning through Ayrshire and Nithsdale, wasted and laid bare the whole countryside ruthlessly and wantonly.
From such acts of violence it is pleasing to turn to more kindly actions dispensed from his court on the Urr, and also from the Isle of Eastholme, with which Heston Island, the "Rathan Isle" of The Raiders may easily be identified. Here his now fast friend and ally, Duncan M'Dowall, a Gallovidian chieftain of note, and an adherent of the English monarch, had his "pele", and again quoting from Bain's Historical Documents, the following entries occur.
"Exemplification of the following charters by Edward K. of Scots and Lord of Galloway in favour of his valet, William de Aldeburgh, and his heirs for his good service.
(1) Charter of all the lands of Kirk Andrewes and Balmaghie (Ballem gethe) in Galloway, to be held by services used and wont. Appends his seal at the Isle of Eastholme, 20th September, 16th year (1348).
(2) Letters patent by same, whereby, in order to maintain peace and keep down robbers in the above lands, he erects them into a free barony, cum furca and fossa and all usual privileges. Appends his seal at the isle of Eastholme (Hestan, mouth of Urr W. ?) 21st September, 1348.
(3) Charter by the same, granting to the same Sir William (now a knight) and his heirs, all the lands in Glenken called the barony of' Kelles, with the granter's castle in "Insular Arsa" (Kenmure), and likewise the reversions of his barony of Crossmyghhelle and Kisdale in Galloway, for the yearly redendo of a rose in the season of roses, se fetatar. Appends his seal before Sir Matthew M'Lollan, Sir Patrick M'Coulagh, Sir Roger de Montbray - knights; Gilbert M'Coulaghe, Dougal M'Dowylle, John, son of Sir Matthew M'Lollan, John de Rereyk, and others. At his castle of Botille, 29th November, 21st of his reign (1352).
(4) Letters patent by same, as a further grace to Sir William, erecting all the lands last mentioned in No.3 into a free barony, with pit gallows, soc, and sac, &c. At his castle of Bottile, 1st December, 1352."
The following year, 1353, Edward Balliol attended the English court. Taking advantage of this, William Lord Douglas invaded Galloway, and succeeded in gaining over the heads of several of the most important Galloway families, with their chief, Duncan M'Dowall, which very materially weakened a failing cause. Moreover, the kingcraft of Edward recognised that it would be to his own betterment to make terms with the captive David whose cause was now really the cause of Scotland.
As the result of conference, David was accordingly liberated in October 1357, having served eleven years in captivity, and was acknowledged sole King of Scotland, that nation undertaking to pay to Edward a ransom of 100,000 marks. Balliol naturally protested at this cavalier treatment. It is needless to say he was not listened to. The only consideration he received was that three of his staunchest adherents were allowed to be present at the conference to watch over his private interests. These were Patrick M'Culloch, John of Wigtown, and William of Aldeburgh (Auldbreck, Wigtownshire) whom, in happier days, as we have seen, the King had delighted to honour.
Eventually Balliol surrendered his claim, and gave up his crown of gold, which, indeed, had never been very firmly fixed upon his head. He left Scotland in January, 1356, never again to return, and, sinking into obscurity, died at Doncaster seven years later, childless and forsaken, the last of a line whose outstanding and distinctive qualities of heart, rather than head, had influenced the province of Galloway rather than the realm of Scotland. The estate again passed to the Douglases, and the further history is involved in its succession through different families to the present proprietors, the Maxwells of Munches.
In conclusion, it may be pointed out that the old-fashioned adjacent building now part of the farm-steading of Buittle Place, was a seventeenth century mansion-house, which was also called Buittle Castle, and figures as such in Grose's Antiquities of Scotland. Its appearance has in recent times been modified by the removal of the angle turrets. This old mansion-house explains the fragmentary condition of the real Buittle Castle we have been dealing with, which doubtless formed the quarry for its erection.
